On the short trip from the airport the headlights had picked out snatches of rocky landscape and skinny dogs on business in the dead of night. This morning the windows from the breakfast room look down on the urban cacophony in the street below, busy humanity urgently trading in strong sunlight and even stronger colours – a market scene to match the best. Across the road under the “waiting shop” sign women shriek and jostle to hold their place, waiting for the barred doors to admit the next squabbling group, competing for gaudy things to sell in the street. A slight frisson of culture shock or trepidation for the new arrival? This is Praia, full on – the capital of Cape Verde on the Island of Santiago.
The coffee and slices of papaya are the precursor to adventures on three very different islands; Santiago, Sao Vincente and Santo Antao. We will trek from dizzy heights in moonscape mountains, down to the lush Ribeira floors and the riot of beans, manioc, cassava, bananas and mango trees. We will be overtaken by burdened donkeys on rocky paths and greet locals in vibrant colours elegantly balancing loads on their heads.
The friendly people with their colourful dresses who manage to eke out a living from this arid volcanic land… we enjoyed a wonderful spontaneous hour spent with a family who grew fruit and vegetables on their 3-hectare small holding. Everywhere we were met with friendly smiles and “bom dia”.