First Steps into Andorra's Wilderness

In Andorra, Ramble Worldwide leader Jane discovered the walking destination you never knew you wanted to explore

There's something magical about those first moments when you step off the beaten path and into a landscape that feels untouched by time. As I write this, I'm still buzzing from our week in Andorra, that remarkable little country wedged between France and Spain that so few people truly know. Leading groups through mountains has been my life for years, but Andorra? It caught me completely off guard.

Our first proper walk was up Pic de Torradella, and I'll be honest, it was rough going. No well-maintained paths here, just authentic mountain terrain that demands respect. The group was warming up nicely to the challenge when something extraordinary happened. I was approaching a col, the sun warm on my back, when I noticed a shadow moving across the ground in front of me. My heart stopped.

I looked up into that impossibly blue, cloudless sky and there it was, a solitary eagle, soaring not far above me. Not the distant speck you usually glimpse, but close enough that I could see the power in its wings. For several minutes, I watched this magnificent bird circle away from the col and high above the valley, then return to the sky directly overhead. It was as if Andorra itself was welcoming us, reminding us that we were entering its domain.

That moment set the tone for everything that followed. This wasn't going to be just another walking holiday. We were stepping into something special.

One of our group members captured it perfectly: "Ordino is a perfect place to stay, even though this valley is a little further from some of the walks offered, the beauty and tranquillity of the town easily outweighed this small inconvenience." She was absolutely right. While other tour companies might choose locations purely for logistical convenience, sometimes the soul of a place matters more than saving twenty minutes on a transfer.

Ordino gave us something precious, a sense of belonging in this mountain community, away from the duty-free crowds that most visitors associate with Andorra. Each morning, we'd step out into crisp mountain air, the peaks surrounding us like ancient guardians. The anticipation was palpable. Where would today's adventure take us?

After leading tours across Europe's mountain ranges, I can tell you that Andorra offers something increasingly rare: genuine remoteness. We rarely encountered other walkers. No crowds, no queues, no jostling for the best viewpoint. Just us, the mountains, and a landscape that has remained largely unchanged for centuries.

The peaks here may not reach the heights of the Alps, but they're also not scarred by cable cars and development. There's a rawness, an authenticity that speaks to anyone who remembers what mountains used to feel like before they became tourist destinations. For those of us who've walked extensively, Andorra represents something precious: a place where you can still feel like an explorer rather than a tourist.