Mallorca’s Moorish Terraces & Wildlife

Walking from Estellencs to Banyalbafur on the GR 221 long distance route, we follow terraces built by the Moors who settled here in the 10th century. Each generation built a new dry stone terrace and planted vines at first, then these were later replaced by olive trees. The landscape tells a story of human persistence and adaptation, written in stone and living wood. 

We pass close to very old olive groves, trees gnarled and twisted, still sending out branches after many centuries, still producing olives, albeit in smaller quantities. These ancient survivors fascinate me. I enjoy taking a few minutes to stop and look at the gaps and cracks in the furrowed trunks and think how resilient these trees have been to survive for so long. Some of these trees were young when the Moors first built these terraces. They've weathered storms, droughts, changes of empire and agriculture, yet still they stand, still they bear fruit.

The tracks here can be rough limestone which takes its toll on the feet unless well shod with strong soled shoes or boots. But the effort is worth it. Take time to stop and look at the changing views as we pass, you will have a different perspective around the next corner. The path rewards patience and observation. Every pause reveals something new: the way light filters through ancient branches, the pattern of terraces stepping down the hillside, the distant glint of sea between the mountains.

One of the free day options is taking a ferry across to Dragonera Island. We can see it from our dining room each evening, but visiting brings new perspectives. In September, we were lucky to watch Eleonora's falcons swooping down to catch dinner for their brood before heading off south for the winter. These elegant hunters, timing their breeding to coincide with autumn migration of small birds, remind us we're part of ancient patterns of movement across this landscape. 

I had heard stories of the abundant little green wall lizards getting into people's bags looking for titbits and being brought back to the hotel. We kept a watchful eye out! These tiny locals seem to have no fear of humans, perhaps seeing us as mobile picnic opportunities. Their presence adds a playful element to the serious business of protecting this nature reserve.

Watchtowers where they looked out for pirates dot our routes, reminders of a time when these shores needed constant vigilance. We walk past these stone sentinels, imagining the long watches, the sudden shouts when sails appeared on the horizon. The path opens out to give views like the Archduke's Path, made for the Austria Archduke Lluis Salvador. Here was a man who understood the value of a good walk with a spectacular view.

 The diversity continues to amaze. After a morning walking ancient agricultural terraces, we might find ourselves having a beer at a local bar in a quiet village. Later, a more sophisticated drink along the waterfront in Port d'Andratx offers a different slice of Mallorcan life. A quick walk round the touristy village of Valldemossa shows us how the outside world sees this island, while a quick look at the quirky sculptures in Esporles reminds us that creativity flourishes in these mountains. 

Each day brings its own rhythm. Morning walks through history, afternoon swims in that miraculous sandy cove behind the hotel, evening gatherings over Alioli and local wine. We are immersed in a long history of other people travelling on foot, yet making our own memories with every step.

Ready to follow Moorish paths through thousand-year-old olive groves? Experience the GR 221 route and spot Eleonora's falcons on our Walking from San Telmo tour. Discover more about why these ancient landscapes continue to captivate walkers.